Saturday, November 24, 2007

A little bit about my life in Sudan

Well, I have been encouraged to write some more, so I thought I would drop a not so brief update about life here in Sudan.

Basically, I work six days a week as a finance director for an international relief organization. It is very challenging, but very interesting as well. We work in 5 different parts of Sudan, so I need to coordinate all of the accounting from the field, compile reports for donors, prepare for audits, help with strategic planning and budgeting. Every day is different, and my job has no routine. Some days, I miss having some mindless work to pass the time, but for the most part I welcome the challenge and the opportunity for growth afforded in this job. I also get along quite well with my boss. We share many similar ideas on where the organization needs to go and what we need to do to get there, and it is motivating to have a plan to work towards. I also feel supported when the inevitable challenges and surprises come along, and I feel like my work is appreciated and is contributing to something worthwhile. All in all, it is a pretty ideal job for me.

I’ve been asked how this experience compares to my time in Malawi. Well, there are far more differences than similarities. Job wise, I felt more like a finance manager in Malawi, doing more of the work of inputting and reconciliations and such. In Sudan, I am more involved in higher level decisions. The challenges are greater, the responsibility is greater, but I guess overall the rewards may be greater as well. I think I may have evolved into this role had I stayed in Malawi as well, and am grateful that I had a chance to get my start in accounting there. Life wise, my time in Zomba (a smaller town in Malawi) was quieter, but I was surrounded by more of the beauty of the countryside. I lived on the side of a plateau, with beautiful views, nice trails, waterfalls, and the like just minutes away. In Khartoum, I live in a large capital city. It is much more functional than beautiful. But city life has its advantages, to be sure. There is generally more to do, more people to hang out with, and amenities and food options are easier to come by. It is hotter in Sudan, more humid in Malawi. The work weeks are longer and often more demanding in Sudan, but then I get vacation time every 3 months and the opportunity to explore another part of the world. If you’re reading this, you’ve probably already read about my time in Holland, England and Egypt. In 4 weeks, I am heading to Malawi for Christmas, and will be traveling to Mozambique to bring in the new year with some friends on a beach overlooking the Indian Ocean. I love that this job compensates me enough that I can afford to take some adventures and can take the opportunity to see new places (and revisit places like Malawi that are dear to my heart).

In other news, I have begun the process of formalizing my plan to stay here for 2 years. Even though I signed a one year contract, this was mainly due to not wanting to commit to staying if things didn’t work out (since I didn’t know my boss, or much about my job or where I would be living). But as most of you know, my plan all along was to stay here for 2 years unless things really weren’t working out. I am excited when I think of what we can accomplish as an organization in the next couple of years, and I am excited about the part I get to play in moving us forward. For those keeping track, this means I am committed to stay here through June 2009. So, at least I don’t have to think about my next step for a bit. I am confident that the experience I gain here and the contacts I make will make my next transition a bit smoother than my last one. I am grateful for the time I had back in Canada and the luxury I had to be able to spend time with friends and family, but I certainly learned some good lessons about planning and job transitioning that should serve me well in the future.

Of course, one of the other benefits of this job is that I have the ability to come back to Canada to visit at least annually. At this point, my plan involves coming back for a month in May (subject to a close friend’s wedding date being set). If I do come back in May, I would likely consider returning for Christmas. This leaves me with a couple of weeks in September 2008 to do another fun adventure. So if you’re going to be in Africa/Europe at this time, let me know and maybe we can meet up. I know it’s a long time away, but I need to do lots of advance planning. And it gives me something to look forward to on those weeks where there are 8 financial reports due and our payroll file needs to be fixed so people can get their monthly pay. J

As for day to day life in Sudan, some weeks I revolve around my work schedule, and use whatever time I have left for rest, relaxation, and winding down. During less busy times, I am generally able to play a couple games of squash or tennis during the week. I try to attend a weekly study group with friends from a church that I don’t go to often enough (but may start going to more frequently now that things are cooling down). It was easier to listen to teaching from my church in Toronto, which I could do in the comfort of my air conditioned home. But now that I know this will be home for a while, I am making more of an effort to really engage in the community and build a few more roots. I am hoping to start some Arabic lessons in the near future as well. I have a few friends that I generally get together with at least once a week for a movie or a games night. It’s amazing how fast the time can pass. I can’t believe I’ve been here 5 months already.

Basically, life is good. Sure, I miss friends and family, as always. Fortunately, the Internet is making it easier and cheaper to maintain regular contact (good old Skype). And it’s not long until I get to visit again. I don’t miss winter. I don’t miss Toronto, though I do miss many people who happen to live there. I guess I would rather be here doing a job I love than there doing a job that is paying my bills. I guess we will see what happens in the future, but for now, I am quite content right where I am, doing something I enjoy that affords me opportunities to do, see, and learn things that are beyond what I could have dreamed of a few years ago.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

I LOVE MY LIFE – Vacation: October 2007

1st stop – Utrecht, Holland

As I was flying into Amsterdam to visit my friend Lisa (another transplanted person from my church in Toronto, Freedomize), I was reflecting on how my life had changed in the past few years. 3 years ago, I had not been on an international flight, and didn’t even have a passport. Now, I was on a plane heading to 3 new countries I’d never been to (raising my total to 10), carrying 5 different currencies. And I was visiting from my new home in Sudan, my second African home in 3 years. Strange and wonderful times indeed. As I was landing, I remember marveling at God’s artistry, looking at the clouds and the way the sun struck the quickly approaching objects on the ground below.

So after finding the train to Utrecht (for those of you wondering, the only thing I did in Amsterdam was walk from the airport to the train station and back 3 days later), I headed off to meet up with Lisa for a weekend of fun and relaxation. I wanted to satisfy a few cravings I had for things that are lacking in Sudan: beer, wine, bacon and ham, a really good hamburger, and a few choice desserts. I was able to cover all of these things over the course of my trip.

On Friday night, I was a bit tired from my travel day that started at 4:30 AM in Sudan airport, and involved a stopover in Egypt. So we relaxed by the water, enjoyed some pizza, beer, wine, and good conversation, before turning in early and watching a movie. On Saturday, I rented a bike and we biked out to a wonderful crepe place just outside of the city. I must note that I saw more bikes in my time in Utrecht than I think I’ve seen in my whole life to this point. I kept meaning to take a picture of the masses of bikes lining entire streets, but I never wanted to make Lisa have to be associated with the stupid tourist who was taking pictures of a bunch of bikes. Plus, with the high number of bicycle thefts there, I might have looked like I was casing bicycles and been arrested or something. Well, the ride back into town seemed to go much faster after a couple of drinks with lunch, and we headed out for a quiet evening. We happened upon a lovely little corner bar that served some passable wine, had a nice atmosphere and some eclectic but good music playing in the background. It was quite nice, and was one of the highlights of my time in Utrecht.

On Sunday, I went with Lisa to a church service that was entirely in Dutch. It featured a familiar verse for me, so I spent the time meditating on said verse, and trying to sing along to the hymns in a strange language. After lunch, we headed outside the city to meet up with some other Canadians that neither of us had met, but were friends of another friend of ours from Toronto. We had a Canadian Thanksgiving of pumpkin pie, apple cake, and a lovely hike through the countryside. I must note that I haven’t been in Canada for Thanksgiving in 3 years now. After heading home, I crashed early, partly because I had to get up early for a flight the next morning, and mostly because I had developed a head cold (probably due to going from an average of 45 degrees to an average of 17, which was warmer and sunnier than usual, so I got lucky)

2nd stop – England

On Monday, I took the short flight to an airport outside London, and took a train to meet up with my friend Andy and his family, whom I worked with in Malawi. The train from the airport stopped in Cambridge and there was a short layover, so I decided to take a wander around the immediate area. It was here I came across probably the greatest bonus of my trip. There was a lovely botanical gardens near the train station. Knowing I wouldn’t have enough time to wander through the garden, I arranged for a later train, and I spent the next hour and a half wandering around one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I filled up my camera with pictures of late blooming flowers, plants I had never seen before, lush gardens, trees in the wonderful multicolours of autumn. I thought often of my Dad and my friend Ronelle, and tried to be there eyes by taking as many pictures as possible. What a wonderful and unexpected bonus for my trip (and even though I balked at the relatively reasonable entrance price, it proved to be the best value of my vacation)

So, after the walk, I was feeling a bit tired (I did my best to forget about the headcold, but it was starting to remind me that long hikes were not in the cards). So I hopped on the train and went to meet Andy and his family. It was so great to see them. I was treated to lovely country views, and lovely country hospitality. One of the nights I was there, I was treated to a lovely meal of chicken, roasted potatoes, and roasted vegetables that reminded me of home and of family meals I used to have on Sundays. It made me think of my beloved grandfather who would prepare feasts like these. It made me remember us eating rare roast beef with my grandpa declaring “The doctor has told me for 87 years that I shouldn’t eat rare beef, but I’m still here.” It was so nice to be welcomed by the family for a few days. I got to earn my keep a little by helping prepare dinner while the family rounded up some sheep for slaughter. Ahh, life on a farm. I also got my first taste of an English pub with Andy, and got to go to a movie theatre for the first time since leaving Canada (we watched the Bourne Ultimatum, which was another bonus for me since I didn’t think it would still be in theatre) While the kids were at school and the family was at work during the day, I got to relax, get some reading done, and spent most of my days playing their guitar and piano. I miss my instruments.

Anyhow, after saying my thanks and goodbyes to the family, I bought an expensive train ticket to London. It was a sign of things to come. My wallet had a big hole in it for my entire London stay, but it was easily justified by me since I was staying with friends (thus saving room costs), and I wasn’t there that long, and wanted to really enjoy myself. In London, I was staying with my friend Karen, another friend from Toronto who recently moved to London to do graduate work there. I wandered around downtown on Thursday while she was in class, did a little scouting of the bookstores and music stores, and then met up with Karen for a lovely thai dinner. I miss my weekly intake of thai food in Toronto (though there is an Indian place near my house in Sudan that makes a passable pad thai). On Friday, I did some more exploring and book shopping while Karen was in class, and then we met up for a late afternoon matinee of Spamalot (I love Monty Python) It was an interesting stage play version of the movie The Holy Grail, with some bonuses, surprises, and fun. The highlight for me was a song in the middle mocking the sappy love songs that appear in every musical. Great stuff. We capped off the evening with an even better thai restaurant with great food, great wine, and great company.

On Saturday, I got up early to stand in line to get cheap tickets for another show I hadn’t seen in years, and wanted to see in London, Les Miserables. I was debating between this show and the Phantom of the Opera, a show I’ve seen many times but never tire of. I definitely feel I made the right choice. I had forgotten how wonderfully moving Les Miserables is. Well written, well delivered, well casted, it made for a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon. In sharp contrast to our afternoon, we ventured out in the evening to watch England battle France in the semi finals of the Rugby World Cup. Watching this match in London was a great pleasure for me, and celebrating with the rowdy English crowd when they pulled out the victory was great stuff. After carrying the celebrations to another pub and making fast friends with some other folks who live in Karen’s apartment, I headed back for a good night’s sleep before my flight to Cairo the next day.


3rd stop – Cairo

So, while I was planning my trip to Europe, the cheapest flight option turned out to be Egypt Air. So I figured I might as well add a few days in Egypt to the end of my trip, since I would be stopping there anyhow. So I flew into Cairo Sunday night for a quick day and a half in Egypt. In such a short time, I determined to hit the highlights. Once I got to the hotel, I fell asleep early so I could have a productive and busy Monday. I was met at the airport by Joseph, an Egyptian who runs a tour company, and who happens to be a friend of one of my friends in Sudan. It was invaluable to have a guide who knew the city, and who I knew I could trust in a place where there are many people who are more than happy to separate you from your money by way of overpriced cab rides, overpriced tours, and overpriced souvenirs.

On Monday morning, I headed out to the pyramids, of course. When in Egypt, you go to the pyramids. It reminded me of a quote from Boston Legal, one of my favourite TV shows. “You can’t go to Texas and not ride the mechanical bull. That would be like going to LA and not sleeping with Paris Hilton.” Anyhow, back to my trip. The pyramids truly are magnificent. I had intended to explore them by camel, but with the heat such as it was and with my own personal tour guide, I was able to see the best parts of the pyramids and surrounding area just fine. Seeing the pyramids made me think that I should plan on seeing all the seven wonders of the world. I think there are 7 man made wonders, and seven natural wonders, so it could take some time. I’ve already seen Victoria Falls in Zambia, and now the pyramids, and I’m not yet 30, so I think that’s a good start.

Anyhow, after touring the pyramids (and a quick lunch at KFC: wonderfully Egyptian), I did the second most touristy thing in Cairo: I visited the famous Cairo Museum. I will admit that I am not an ancient history lover, or a museum buff, but I knew that I should go explore the museum. I will admit that much of the display’s significance is lost on me, but it was impressive viewing so many pieces of ancient history. The highlight for me was spending some time looking at an original manuscript of one of the psalms.

After all this walking, I headed back to the hotel for some rest before doing some more exploring of the city. I enjoyed the beauty of driving along the Nile, beauty that I would see under cover of night late that evening. In the evening, I took a boat cruise of the Nile, complete with a buffet dinner, some very electic entertainment, and the great feeling of sitting on deck, sipping a drink, and gliding along the water with a refreshing breeze on your face.

The next morning, it was off to the airport and back to Sudan, my home for now. I am glad to be back, still nursing a bit of a cough, but thoroughly relaxed. I am ready to take on my next 3 months in Sudan. The first 3 months have flown by, filled with lots of challenges and adjustments, but also with lots of rewards. The next few months will continue to be busy, but I like the challenge of my job. I have no routine jobs in my day, and that’s what makes it interesting. Each day presents its new challenges and opportunities to learn and grow. And if things get too demanding, I have my next adventure to look forward to: Christmas in Malawi with a visit somewhere in southern Africa, possibly Mozambique. Should be fun!